Lake Baikal, Siberia: Railway Journey to the World’s Deepest Lake

Sitting on the shoreline of Severobaikalsk in Siberia, we gaze across the surface of Lake Baikal, the oldest and deepest freshwater lake on Earth. Estimated to be more than 25 million years old and reaching depths of nearly one mile, this enormous lake contains around 20 percent of the planet’s unfrozen freshwater. Its volume is so immense that it could contain all five of North America’s Great Lakes combined.

From a geological perspective, Lake Baikal is slowly developing into what may eventually become a future ocean. For now, my wife Mare and I are simply enjoying the peaceful scenery, drinking cold beer, and reflecting on the unforgettable railway adventure that brought us here.

Traveling the Baikal-Amur Mainline

Our journey began aboard the Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM), a quieter and less frequently traveled alternative route to the famous Trans-Siberian Railway. During the trip, we shared a sleeper compartment for 48 hours with a Russian woman and her dog.

The challenge was that we could not understand a single word of Russian. Trying to communicate with our compartment companion reminded me of advice given by a Russian woman we met at the MIR Hostel in St. Petersburg. She had warned us that smiling at strangers in small towns might be misunderstood, and that pointing directly with an index finger was considered impolite.

Trying to follow those cultural rules, I avoided smiling too much at our new roommate. Instead, I pointed to myself and introduced myself in a simple “Tarzan-style” gesture.

“Me, Ron,” I said.

She nodded and replied, “Meeron.”

Close enough.

When I pointed toward her dog and raised my eyebrows, she answered, “Jos.” The dog seemed to understand more Russian than we did. Most of our conversations relied on gestures, facial expressions, and trial-and-error communication. We were slowly learning how to navigate Russia without language.

Learning to Communicate Without Words

Back near the northern shore of Lake Baikal, hunger became our next challenge. Unable to understand the Russian menu, I tried ordering by imitating the sound of a sheep. Surprisingly, the result was a plate of pork chops that we quickly finished.

At least ordering beer was easy through gestures. We joked that perhaps we should have been vodka lovers, since the famous Russian drink was everywhere and much easier to pronounce.

At the comfortable Baikal Trail Hostel in Severobaikalsk, the owner Anna welcomed the chance to practice her English. After several days of only speaking with each other, we enjoyed finally having a real conversation.

Anna recommended a hike through the Siberian wilderness to Baikalskoe, a remote fishing village that has existed for around 300 years. She also arranged a dinner invitation with a Russian family whose daughter hoped to improve her English and eventually become a translator.

Even when we became confused at the local bus station while searching for directions, we discovered that beneath the serious expressions of many locals was a warm and generous spirit. Once we attempted to communicate, people eagerly helped us and even smiled.

Hiking Through Siberia to Baikalskoe Village

We entered the forest, where volunteers were working on the ambitious Great Baikal Trail project, a planned 2,000-mile route surrounding Lake Baikal.

Our hike covered only about seven miles, but it offered an incredible combination of Siberian woodland and dramatic lakeside scenery. The path moved between forest areas and the rugged shoreline before reaching Baikalskoe village.

The village felt like a step back in time. Dirt roads separated traditional wooden houses decorated with colorful details, while livestock wandered freely through the streets.

A Traditional Russian Welcome

After walking under the hot sun, we searched for shade near a small village shop. A man approached carrying a freshly caught omul fish, a species related to salmon that is unique to Lake Baikal, along with a loaf of bread.

Although he spoke only Russian and we understood almost nothing, one word was clear: vodka.

He pulled out a bottle of Russia’s famous national drink and invited us to join him. With curiosity and hesitation, I finally experienced a traditional Russian vodka gathering.

The custom was intense—the bottle was expected to be finished before anyone departed.

Through laughter, gestures, and friendly backslaps, we exchanged stories despite understanding almost none of each other’s words. Of course, vodka occasionally leads to unexpected competitions, including a memorable belly-hair challenge.

Before our planned dinner with the Russian family, Mare helped restore my balance by sending me into Lake Baikal for a refreshing swim. Only a month earlier, the same water had been covered with ice.

Experiencing Siberian Hospitality

While walking along a dusty road, a young woman stopped us. Her name was also Anna. She invited us into her home, where we moved from the icy lake into an incredibly hot kitchen.

Sweat poured from our faces as we enjoyed a delicious bowl of omul soup. Anna practiced speaking English while her grandmother prepared pastries for dessert.

When it was time to leave, the family walked with us all the way to the bus stop and waited until we safely boarded. Their kindness was one of the most memorable parts of our Siberian journey.

Exploring Olkhon Island

Back in Severobaikalsk, Anna helped arrange tickets for an eight-hour hydrofoil journey across Lake Baikal. Our destination was Olkhon Island, a remarkable landmass stretching about 44 miles long and 13 miles wide.

The island has been home to the Buryat people for centuries and is considered a sacred place in Shamanist tradition. Throughout the island, visitors can find obos—sacred collections of trees, poles, and stones believed to contain spiritual energy.

These sites are decorated with blue prayer ribbons and surrounded by offerings such as coins, cigarettes, and vodka bottles, placed by travelers seeking protection and good fortune.

Discovering the Sacred Landscape of Olkhon

A bumpy van ride along rough dirt roads brought us to Nikita’s Homestead, where we enjoyed fried eggs for the first time since leaving the United States nearly a month earlier.

The island offered beautiful hiking opportunities, with trails winding around dramatic rock formations connected to Shaman beliefs. As one of Asia’s most sacred locations, Olkhon Island balances growing tourism with traditional fishing, farming, and livestock practices while respecting its spiritual heritage.

Hiking the Great Baikal Trail

After leaving Olkhon Island by ferry, we arrived at the Baikaler Hostel in Irkutsk, only to discover there were no available rooms. Fortunately, the owner Jack kindly offered another option and drove us to his Baikaler Eco-Hostel in Listvyanka on the southern shore of Lake Baikal.

Soon afterward, we continued exploring another section of the Great Baikal Trail. Jack warned us about Siberian ticks and recommended precautions, including keeping our pants tucked into our socks and checking regularly for ticks.

The trail passed through a beautiful Siberian forest filled with colorful wildflowers among aspen, birch, and pine trees. Following cliffs above the lake, the scenery was surprisingly tropical in some places, with bright blue bays resembling the Caribbean.

Later, we rested on a wooden log in Bolshie Koty, another historic fishing village, enjoying smoked omul, pesto cheese, and buckwheat—foods that quickly became some of our favorite meals from the trip.

The Final Memories of Lake Baikal

Our final ferry journey brought us to abandoned Port Baikal, where rusting ships and forgotten barges reveal memories of a once-thriving settlement.

The Trans-Siberian Railway once passed through this area until construction of a dam on the Angara River changed the landscape and submerged much of the original port. Today, the Circum-Baikal Railway brings visitors from Slyudyanka but ends at this quiet historic location.

Leaving Lake Baikal was difficult. The lake had given us unforgettable encounters with nature, culture, and generous people. Yet one experience remained on our wish list: returning someday to witness the strange and beautiful ice formations that appear on the frozen lake during winter.